Use equal amounts of each and mix into the top 6 inches of soil. Water the surface of the prepared area lightly right before laying the sod. This will help with the sod's survivability. Unroll the sod over the area. Stagger the seams like bricks on a house. Keep the seams of the sod tight. Use a utility knife to cut smaller pieces of sod as needed.
If you watch for sandburrs, you'll learn to recognize them easily, before they go to seed. If you pick one apart, you'll see the seed heads starting to form inside.
That way they won't stick as much to the inside of your mow bag. More recently, I've allowed english ivy to grow in parts of my yard where the bermuda won't. No sandburrs there, probably because of the partial shade. Sorry if this TMI about sandburrs, but I hope it helps! Thanks to everyone for the responses!
As Paul said, virtually every solution involves a lot of work. I have very sandy soil, so like Leah mentioned I am going to try to change my soil structure over time by adding compost. I am going to fertilize the new sod with ringer since I have heard such good things about it. Like WenVan said, I'll try to keep the lawn watered because the sandburr likes dry conditions.
I plan to water deeply and infrequently because the sandburr roots are shallow. My hope is that the grass will outcompete the sandburr. We'll see what happens. Anderson gave himself the promotion. So I gave myself this tiny ad:. Boost this thread! New Lawn in Mid-Michigan. For small areas, till by hand, breaking up the top 6 inches of soil with a hoe or spade.
Spread any desired soil amendments over the lawn area, such as compost. Apply a starter fertilizer in the amount recommended by the sod supplier for the grass variety. Work the amendments into the loosened soil using the power tiller or hoe.
Turn these amendments into the top 6 inches of soil where they are readily available to establishing grass roots. Rake the tilled lawn area smooth before installing the sod. Soil Preparation The most important and most labor intensive part of a successful planting is proper soil preparation. Kill existing vegetation. Make sure to wear appropriate safety equipment check the label of the chemical you apply Check the weather; do not apply chemical on especially hot or windy days You want to coat the entire leaf of each weed, but not so much that chemical is dripping off Some especially resilient weeds will need a second application a week later to fully kill Afterwards, wait several days for the weeds to die before proceeding to the next step.
This ensures that the chemical makes it down to the roots of the plant and completely kills it. Till the soil using a shovel or rototiller. Dig down as deep as possible inches is recommended Go over the area multiple times to break up any large clumps.
If the soil is especially hard, it may be helpful to water it the day prior which will make digging easier.
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